Maya Cami - Full Bust Adjustment →

Step 1.

Following the grainline, draw a vertical line from the centre of the gathering notches up to the bust point (which is roughly the centre of the cup). From this point, draw a line connecting to the armhole notch. From the same bust point, draw a line out to the side seam and another to the centre front.

Step 2.

On a new sheet of paper, draw two vertical lines the distance apart you are wanting to spread your pattern. Place your pattern piece over these lines and cut up the line on bust cup starting from the bottom edge, up to the armhole notch, not quite cutting through at the armhole edge. Line up the edge closest to the centre with one of your vertical lines. Pivot the other side out until it touches your second line.

Step 3.

Cut through the line from the side seam, not quite cutting through at the bust point. Pivot the lower half of the side panel until it lines up with your second line.

Step 4.

Cut through the line from the centre front to the bust point. Pull the bottom edge down until it meets up with the bottom edge of the side panel.

Step 5.

Draw in a new centre front line and join the bottom edge.

Step 6.

Now you want to close the dart, pivoting the excess into the gathers. Draw a line to join the open section at the bottom

Voila! Your bust adjustment is complete!

Emmi Jacket - Attached Collar →

This tutorial works for the standard collar and the bomber collar only. A tutorial for the hood & funnel neck is coming soon.

Emmi Jacket - Attached Collar

a step-by-step turotial

Step 1

Construct the main body of the Emmi jacket in an outer fabric, and in a lining fabric, following steps 1-7 in your instruction booklet.

Step 2

Make collar of your choice. This tutorial works for both the standard collar or bomber collar.

Step 3

Pin collar around neckline, lining up the edges of collar with inside edge of button stand.

Step 4

With right sides facing, pin your jacket and lining together all the way around the neckline edge, sandwiching the collar in between the two layers. Also pin front edge and front hem together, leaving just the back hem open. Stitch together.

Step 5

Complete the rest of of the steps as per your instruction booklet! (NB: except that you will not need any buttonholes around the neckline as your collar is already beautifully attached!)

Aura Dress / Skirt Wrap Adjustment →

If you feel like you would like a little more wrap on your Aura Dress or Skirt, we have two ways below on how to make that pattern adjustment.

Option 1.

For the skirt piece that will be wrapping on the underside, trace front pattern piece onto a new piece of paper. Draw a straight line down from where the tie attaches all the way to hem. Transfer hem cutout. You will need to make the same adjustment to your facing piece.

Option 2.

For the skirt piece that will be wrapping on the underside, trace front pattern piece onto a new piece of paper. Draw a vertical line from the skirt cut line at waist, somewhere in the centre of the skirt panel. Cut up this line and along waistline toward where the tie joins. Open this piece out the desired amount, place another piece of paper behind and tape down in place. You will need to make the same adjustment to your facing piece if you’re making the dress.

Happy sewing! Don’t forget to tag your Aura on instagram so we can see it!

Emmi Jacket - Hood →

Step 1

With right sides facing, pin the hood gusset around the curved edge of hood. Stitch together. 

Topstitch seam allowance toward hood gusset. Now repeat the same steps to attach other side of hood to the other side of gusset.

Repeat all steps for reversible hood.

Step 2

With right sides facing, stretch your fused collar stand out so that the inside curve meets the neck edge of hood. Pin in place, lining up notches. Stitch together.

Repeat for reversible hood.

Trim seam allowance in half and clip around curve. Press seam allowance toward collar stand.

Repeat for reversible hood.

Step 3

With right sides facing, pin the fused neck button stand to the front edge of hood and collar stand. Stitch together. Press seam allowance toward hood. Repeat for other side and also for reversible hood.

Step 4

With right sides facing, pin your hood and reversible hood together all the way around the edge and around the edge of button stand and collar stand. Stitch together, leaving a gap about 10cm/4” at the centre back of collar stand. Trim seam allowance in half and clip around curves.

Step 5

Pull hood through to the right side through the gap in collar stand

With the seam allowance pressed inwards, edgestitch the gap closed. Topstitch along top edge of hood through both layers to secure.

Step 6

Transfer button and buttonhole placement markings from your pattern piece onto the right side of collar and button stands. Construct buttonholes, making sure you’re putting them on the same side as your jacket. Stitch buttons in place using the reversible button method on page 22 on your instruction booklet.

Emmi Jacket - Bomber Collar →

Step 1

With right sides facing, stretch your fused collar stand out so that the inside curve meets the neck edge of bomber neck piece. Pin in place, lining up notches. Stitch together. Trim seam allowance in half and clip around curve. Press seam allowance toward collar stand.

Step 2

With right sides facing, stretch your other fused collar stand out so that the inside curve meets the top edge of bomber neck piece. Pin in place and stitch together. Press seam allowance toward collar stand.

Step 3

Fold your bomber neck piece in half with right sides facing. Pin both the short ends and around open edge of collar stand. Stitch together, leaving a gap about 10cm/4” at the centre back of collar stand. Trim seam allowance in half and clip around curves.

Step 4

Pull through to the right side through the gap in collar stand. With the seam allowance pressed inwards, edgestitch the gap closed. 

Step 5

Transfer button placement markings from your pattern piece onto the right side of collar stand. Stitch buttons in place. As this collar is not reversible, you only need buttons on one side of the collar stand.

Emmi Jacket - Funnel Neck →

Step 1

With right sides facing, stretch your fused collar stand out so that the inside  curve meets the neck edge of funnel neck. Pin in place, lining up notches. Stitch together. Trim seam allowance in half and clip around curve. Press seam allowance toward collar edging.

Repeat for reversible funnel neck piece.

Step 2

With right sides facing, pin the fused neck button stand to the front edge of funnel neck and collar stand. Stitch together. Trim seam allowance in half and clip around curve. Press seam allowance toward funnel. Repeat for other side and also for reversible funnel neck piece.

Step 3

With right sides facing, pin your two funnel neck pieces together along top edge and around the edge of button stand and collar stand. Stitch together, leaving a gap about 10cm/4” at the centre back of collar stand. Trim seam allowance in half and clip around curves.

Step 4

Pull through to the right side through the gap in collar stand. With the seam allowance pressed inwards, edgestitch the gap closed.

Topstitch along top edge through both layers to secure.

Step 5

Transfer button and buttonhole placement markings from your pattern piece onto the right side of collar and button stands. Construct buttonholes, making sure you’re putting them on the same side as your jacket. Stitch buttons in place using the reversible button method on page 22.

Emmi Jacket - Collar →

Step 1

With right sides facing, stretch your fused collar stand out so that the inside  curve meets the neck edge of collar. Pin in place, lining up notches. Stitch together. Trim seam allowance in half and clip around curve. Press seam allowance toward collar stand.

Repeat for under collar.

Step 2

With right sides facing, pin your collar and under collar together all the way around the edge and around the edge of collar stand. Stitch together, leaving a gap about 10cm/4” at the centre back of collar stand. Trim seam allowance in half and clip around curves.

Step 3

 Pull collar through to the right side through the gap in collar stand. Give it a good press. With the seam allowance pressed inwards, edgestitch the gap closed.

Step 4

Transfer button placement markings from your pattern piece onto the underside of collar stand. Stitch buttons in place. As this collar is not reversible, you only need buttons on one side of the collar stand.

Emmi Jacket - Drawstring Hem →

Step 1

Mark in the buttonhole placement from your pattern piece. On the wrong side of jacket front, place a small square of fusing over the buttonhole placement. Fuse in place. Stitch buttonhole and slash open. Repeat for other front.

Step 2

With right sides facing, pin both your jacket sides together all the way around the neckline edge, front edge and front hem, leaving just the back hem open. Stitch together. Trim seam allowances in half and clip around curved edges.

(Whoops, we stitched too far! In this photo here we have continued sewing past the side seams and just left a small opening in the centre back. This will still get the same result, it just means you can ignore the next step! )

Step 3

Turn back to the right side, through the gap and either handstitch or edgestitch the gap closed.

Step 4

Topstitch your hemline, through all layers 1.5cm/0.6” from edge stopping when you reach the button stands.

Step 5

Attach a safety pin to one end of your drawstring and thread through one button hole, coming out the other. Cut to desired length. Thread the end through toggle and tie a knot at the end of drawstring. Repeat for other side.

Emmi Jacket - Welt Pocket →

Step 1

With right sides together, pin the fused welt facing to the welt pocket bag along top edge. Stitch together. Open out and press seam allowance toward pocket bag. Mark in 1cm/3/8” seam allowance around remaining three edges of welt facing on the wrong side with tailors chalk.

Repeat for other pocket bag, making sure it reflects the one you’ve just done.

Step 2

With wrong sides together, fold fused welt in half and stitch together 1cm/3/8” from bottom edge. Press. Mark in 1cm/3/8” seam allowance on the two short ends with tailors chalk. Repeat for other welt.

Step 3

On the right side of your jacket front, mark in your welt pocket placement from your pattern piece.

Place your welt onto the marking so that the stitch line on welt overlaps the bottom long edge of marking. Stitch in place directly over the stitching on welt, starting and stopping your stitchline at the side markings on welt.

Step 4

With right sides facing, pin the welt facing with attached pocket bag to the top long marking line. Stitch in place directly over the marking, starting and stopping your stitchline at the side markings on welt facing.

Cut the welt pocket open through the centre of the pocket opening, finishing 2cm before each end. Clip into each corner to create a ‘Y’ shape at each end. Be careful not to clip past or through your stitching.

Step 5

Pull the pocket bag/welt facing, small triangles and welt seam allowance through the slit so that it is on the wrong side. Press the little triangles back to create a nice square opening from the right side.

Step 6

Holding the pocket bag/welt facing out of the way, stitch the little triangles to the edge of welt, through all layers at the 1cm/3/8” stitchline. Press. Repeat for opposite end of welt.

Step 7

With right sides facing, pin the open edge of pocket bag to the bottom edge of welt. Stitch together.

Step 8

Pin the side seams of pocket bag together and stitch. Give your pocket a good press on both sides.

Repeat method for opposite welt pocket.

Emmi Jacket - Patch Pocket →

Step 1

With right sides facing, pin the patch pocket and patch pocket lining together along top edge. Stitch. Open out and understitch seam allowance toward lining. Press.

Step 2

Still with wrong sides out, pull together the bottom edges of pocket and pocket lining and pin together. The top of the pocket should be folded at the notches. Stitch together, leaving a gap about 7.5cm/3” on one side. Trim seam allowance in half and clip around curves. Turn through to the right side through the gap and press edges nice and crisp, pressing the open seam allowances inward.

Step 3

On the right side of your jacket front, mark in your chosen pocket placement from your pattern piece with tailors chalk or pins. Fold your pocket in half to find the centre points and mark with a pin.

Step 4

With right sides up, place your pocket onto the markings on your jacket front, lining up the centre of the pocket with the vertical line and resting the bottom edge of pocket on the horizontal line. Pin in place. Topstitch pocket in place around edges.

Emmi Jacket - Assembling the Body →

Step 1

Pin fronts to back at the shoulder seams with right sides facing. Stitch together. Topstitch seam allowances toward back.

Step 2

Pin fused front and back neck edging pieces together at the shoulder seams with right sides facing. Stitch together. Press seams open.

Step 3

Pin the outer curve of neck edging to neckline with right sides facing, lining up shoulder seams. Stitch together. Trim seam allowance in half and clip around curves. Press seam allowances toward jacket.

Step 4

Pin fused button stand to centre front of jacket with right sides facing. Stitch. Press seam allowances toward jacket. Repeat for other side.

Step 5

Pin upper sleeve and under sleeve together with right sides facing, lining up notches. Stitch together. Topstitch seam allowances toward under sleeve. Repeat for other sleeve.

Lining with facing: Press seam open rather than topstitching seam.

Step 6

Lay jacket body over sleeve with right sides facing and pin in place, starting from bottom of armhole upwards on both front and back, matching up notches. The centre notch on sleeve head lines up with shoulder seam of jacket. Evenly distribute any ease in the sleeve head while pinning. Stitch with the sleeve on the underside. Topstitch seam allowances toward jacket. Repeat for opposite sleeve. 

Step 7

Place a pin where front and back underarm seams meet up and pin down to hemline (or side seam notch for curved hemline) and out to sleeve hem. Stitch together, stopping at side seam notch for curved hem or all the way to the hemline for the other two variations. Repeat on opposite side.

Repeat all steps up to this point for your other side of jacket or lining.

Step 8

With right sides facing, pin both your jacket sides, or jacket and lining together all the way around the neckline edge, front edge and front hem, leaving just the back hem open. Stitch together.

Clip around curved edges.

Step 9

(whoops! we have done step 9 & 10 around the opposite way from that in your instruction booklet! The details remain the same :) )

With the wrong sides still out. Push your neck edge pieces to the inside so they are sandwiched between the neck sections with the raw edges together. Stitch together to secure, starting about 5cm/2” from left edge and finishing about 5cm/2” from right edge.

Step 10

Now do the same with your front button stand pieces. Push your front button stands to the inside so they are sandwiched between the front sections with the raw edges together. Stitch together to secure, starting about 5cm/2” from top edge and finishing about 5cm/2” from bottom edge.

Step 11

Pull one side of jacket to one side and the other (or lining) to the other side with wrong sides out. Fold sleeve hems of one of the sides up about 5cm.

Step 12

Fold your sleeves in to the centre to meet each other overlapping your unfolded sleeve over the folded sleeve. Stitch sleeve edges together. Repeat for other sleeve.

Step 13

Elasticated Sleeve: Pull sleeve through to the right side and topstitch through both layers 1.5cm/0.6” from the edge, leaving a 2.5cm/1” gap in your stitchline for threading elastic.

Reversible Sleeve: Pull sleeve through to the right side and topstitch through both layers 1.5cm/0.6” from the edge. And skip to step 15

Step 14

For elasticated sleeve only.

Work out how tight you want the elastic around your wrist and cut to size, making sure you allow enough to overlap and stitch together. Attach a safety pin to one end and thread between your jacket layers and through the gap in the stitching on your sleeve hem. Secure the two ends of elastic together, then stitch the gap closed. Repeat for other sleeve.

Step 15

Turn your jacket back through to the wrong side and pin together back hemline. Stitch, leaving about a 10cm/4” gap in your stitching at the centre back.

Step 16

Turn back to the right side, through the gap and either handstitch or edgestitch the gap closed.

Step 17

Topstitch your hemline, through all layers 1.5cm/0.6” from edge stopping when you reach the button stands.

Step 18

With tailors chalk, mark on your button and buttonhole placement from your pattern piece.
Construct your buttonholes. The buttonholes should be vertical and centred on your front button stands and as marked on your neck edging pattern piece.
Sew your buttons on.

Pattern Hack - Nova Coat with Zip & Elasticated Cuffs →

Pattern Hack - Nova Coat with Zip & Elasticated Cuffs

a step-by-step tutorial

Pattern Adjustments:

For the addition of the zip, changes need to be made to your Upper front and Lower front pattern pieces to create a new front facing pattern.

Also, a sleeve cuff pattern needs to be made to elasticate the sleeves. The rest of the pattern pieces can be used as usual.

Step 1

Mark in the centre front ‘foldline’ on your upper front and lower front pattern pieces.

On your Upper Front pattern piece do this by; starting at the centre front notch at the neck edge, draw a straight line, parallel to the grainline down to the bottom edge of the pattern piece. (where the lower front attaches.)

As seen here marked in red.

Step 2

Cut down the centre front line on both Upper and Lower front pattern pieces. These cut off pieces will become your front facing.

Join the Upper front ‘facing’ to the Lower front ‘facing’, overlaying them by 2cm. This removes the 1cm seam allowance on each piece that originally would have been used to sew the pieces together.

Add 1cm seam allowance to the long centre front edge. (not necessary to cut that piece out yet..one more step to go but I already did here in these photos!)

Step 3

Remove the mitre corner excess by drawing a straight line across the bottom of your new front facing piece. Start where the original mitre angle begins on the inner edge of the pattern piece. Draw a line straight across squared with the centre front line.

Cut out and label your new pattern piece ‘Nova Coat Front Zip Facing’, cut one pair main fabric, cut one pair fusing.

Step 4

Add 1cm seam allowance to the centre front edge of your Upper Front pattern piece.

Step 5

Add 1cm seam allowance to the centre front edge of your Lower Front pattern pieces.

Also, square the corner off at the bottom of this piece to fill in the angle originally used for the mitre corner. Simply do this by drawing a line continuing from the straight hemline to meet the line continuing from the centre front line. Cut out your new lower front pattern piece.

Step 6

Mark in a notch at the hem fold-line. This should be 5cm from pattern hem edge.

Step 7

Create a Sleeve cuff piece. Measure the length of your sleeve edge along the wrist-line.

Create a rectangle, the length of the measurement (just taken) and a width of 9cm.

Cut out your rectangle and label it ‘Nova Coat Sleeve Cuff’, Cut one pair main fabric.

Sewing Instructions Adjustments:

Step 1

Attach the Upper fronts to the lower fronts of your outer fabrics as per your instruction booklet.

On the right side, attach one side of your zip along the centre front edge of the jacket front. Make sure to start your zip at the hemline notch.

Repeat on opposite front for other side of the zip.

Step 2

Turn in the top corner of your zip tape, and stitch in place. As seen in picture above.

Step 3

Continue as per your Nova instructions to attach backs, shoulders, sleeves, and side seams.

Step 4

Fuse front facing and back neck facing pieces. With right sides facing, pin front facing to back neck facing along shoulder seams. Stitch and press seams open.

Step 5

With right sides facing, pin the bottom edge of the front facing to the hemline of the lower front hem edge. Stitch together, stopping 1cm from the inside edge of the front facing. Repeat on opposite side. As seen in picture above.

Step 6

With right sides facing, fold the front hemline up at the hem notch, where the zip begins. Pin the front facing to the jacket front along the centre front edge, sandwiching the zip in-between. Stitch. Turn jacket through to the right side to reveal zip, and understitch the seam allowance toward the facing.

Step 7

With right sides facing, pin the two short edges of the sleeve cuff together. Stitch and press seams open.

Repeat for other cuff.

Step 8

Cut elastic to comfortable wrist size. Stitch elastic together well at cut ends to create a circle.

With wrong sides together, fold your sleeve cuff piece in half so that the two long raw edges are together. Sandwich the elastic circle in-between and stitch along the raw edge, encasing the elastic, making sure not to stitch your elastic along the way.

Step 9

With right sides facing, pin the elasticated sleeve cuff to the sleeve hem. Stitch.

Step 10

Make the lining pieces as per your instruction booklet to attach fronts, backs and sleeves.

Step 11

Attach lining to the facing pieces as per your instruction booklet.

Step 12

Attach lining sleeve hem edge to outer sleeve edge, sandwiching the sleeve cuff using the same process as illustrated in your instruction booklet.

Step 13

With right sides facing, pin bottom hem of lining to the raw edge of hem facing on outer fabric. Stitch together starting and stopping your stitch line 1cm from each end where is meets the front facing near zip.

Turn Jacket through to the right side and press hem edge well.

You’ve done it! Enjoy your new cosy zip-up Nova.

Pattern Adjustment - The Celestia Top →

Pattern adjustment:

Step 1

Place your Skirt tier 1 pattern piece on to a blank piece of paper. Tape down.

Step 2

Square down a line, extending the side seam length to your desired amount. In this sample I added 20cm length.

Draw a new hemline parallel to the bottom edge of the original pattern piece.

Step 3

Cut out your new lengthened pattern piece. Repeat these steps to the back pattern piece.

Sewing adjustments:

There are no sewing adjustments needed to make up your lengthened Celestia Top, just follow the Celestia instruction booklet, disregarding the pocket and 2nd tier details.

Click here to follow along with these original steps in our online Celestia Dress photographic tutorial.

Pattern Hack - The Wide Leg Guise Pants →

Pattern adjustments:

Step 1

Place your front leg pattern piece on top of a piece of blank paper. Extend the length of your grainline to reach from the pant hem edge, to the waistline edge. Also draw a line extending the length of the hem edge line. As seen in pictures above.

Step 2

Measuring out from the grainline to the side seam, find the widest point. Draw a line from this point down to the extended hem line, parallel to the grainline.

Step 3

Choose a point on the inner leg to start your extra width from. Above, we choose to to start 9cm down from the crutch line (just so happens to be where the size numbers sits, if you want to follow that as a guideline!) From this point, measure the distance to the grainline. Draw a parallel line from this point down to the extended hemline. you can check you’ve drawn it straight by measuring from the grainline out to your new inside leg seam along the hemline and it should match to that at the upper inner leg.

Step 4

Cut out your new wide front leg pattern piece.

Step 5

Repeat the above steps 1-4 to your back leg pattern piece.

Make sure to put the front and back leg pattern pieces on top of each other to ensure the inner and outer leg seam lengths match!

Step 6

You will also need to add a little extra width to your pocket bag A & B pieces.

• Lay your Pocket bag A on top of your new wide front leg, you will see where you need to add some width to the side seam.

• Attach a small piece of paper under you pocket bag side seam, as pictured.

• Lay you wide front leg pattern piece over your pocket bag, matching it up along the waist edge and pocket edge. Draw in the new side seam on your pocket bag.

• Trim new Pocket Bag A side seam.

• Make sure to add the same amount to your Pocket Bag B side seam. Do this following the steps above, but use your pocket bag A as the guide.

All the remaining pattern pieces do not need to be altered.

Sewing adjustments:

There are no sewing adjustments to make up your Wide Leg Guise Pants, just follow the Guise pant instruction booklet. You can find a helpful photographic tutorial for them here.

Pattern Adjustment - The Cropped Stacker Jacket →

Pattern adjustment:

Follow these steps to shorten the body length of your Stacker Jacket pattern pieces. Start with your front pattern piece, then repeat the same steps for the back pattern piece.

Step 1

Starting at your ‘lengthen/ shorten here’ line, measure down the amount you want to remove from the jacket bodice length. Draw a line across your pattern piece here parallel to the first line.

Step 2

Cut along the the ‘lengthen/ shorten here’ line.

Step 3

Place the bottom edge of top section along your second line, lining up the centre front seam. Tape in place.

Step 4

Redraw the curve, blending the side seam from your top section to bottom section. See as pictured.

Sewing adjustments

There are no sewing adjustments needed to make up your cropped Stacker Jacket, just follow the steps in the Stacker Jacket instruction booklet.

To see the Stacker Jacket photographic tutorial click here.

Pattern Hack - Tula Pants With Drawstring Waist →

Pattern adjustment:

To create a pair of these drawstring waist Tula pants you will need the front, back and pocket bag pattern pieces.

Step 1

Remove the faux fly front.

Working on you front pant leg pattern piece, make a mark 1cm from centre front notch (along the top edge). Draw a straight line from this mark to the point where the faux fly curve meets at the centre front crutch seam. Cut along this line to remove the fly.

Step 2

Attach a blank piece of paper under the top of your front pant leg.

Add 5cm in height to the waistline.

Step

Repeat for the back pant leg.

On the side seam, mark a notch 2cm from the top. This will be to indicate where to fold the top edge under to create the drawstring casing.

Step 3

Add the same amount of height to your pocket bag!

Sewing adjustments:

The sewing instructions for this hack of the Tula pants only varies from the Tula instruction booklet once it gets to the waistband details.

So, firstly follow the pocket steps 1, 2 and 3, the leg seams 4 (but straight up as there will be no fly), 6, 7, 8, the hem step 17, and the drawstring step 15.

Then follow the following steps for your drawstring finished waistband.

Step 1

Neaten waist edge of pants.

Turn waist back at notches, towards the inside of the pants.

Step 2

On the wrong side of your pant front, lay your fabric flat to see the creased press mark, which will be your finished waist edge. Place a small square of fusible interfacing over the centre front seam, just under that crease. and press in place. This will give strength to your buttonholes. Turn your fabric over to the right side and stitch tow buttonholes, one on either side of the centre front seam.

Step 3

Turn waist edge back down towards the inside of the pants t notch and pin in place. Stitch.

Attach a safety pin to one end of your drawstring. Thread through casing from one buttonhole and coming out the other.

You did it!

Pattern Hack - The Sequence Blouse with Added Frills →

Pattern adjustments:

To create our version of the ‘added frills’ sequence hack, follow these steps to alter your bodice, wrap bodice and wrap bodice facing pattern pieces, and to create a new frill pattern piece. The sleeve, bodice neck facing and tie pattern pieces will also be needed (unaltered).

Step 1

Shorten your front and back pattern pieces by …cm from the blouse hemline.

This is to create a cropped length finish. You can alter the amount you chose to shorten the length by to suit your personal preference.

Step 2

Shorten the Wrap neck facing the same amount from hemline.

Step 3

Measure the length of the neckline on your wrap bodice front piece.

Step 4

Draw a rectangle 15cm wide by the length of your wrap bodice neckline, as measured in previous step.

Cut out the rectangle and label your new pattern piece ‘Sequence Blouse Neck Frill’. On one of the short ends, (15cm) write Cut on fold, with the cut on fold arrow marking as seen in picture above. Write the cutting instructions Cut 2 on fold.

The reason for cutting this piece on the fold is to double the length of the neckline edge. This will create a long enough frill piece to gather back in nicely along the wrap neckline.

Sewing adjustments:

Step 1

Press neck frill piece in half lengthwise.

Stitch a row of gathering stitches (the longest stitch length on your machine) along the raw edge of frill, keeping it sitting within the 1cm / 0.39” seam allowance.

Step 2

Bast the neckline edge of your wrap bodice piece, to ensure it dosen’t stretch when attaching the frill.

Step 3

Pin neck frill along neck edge of your front wrap bodice with right sides facing. Pull the gathering threads and evenly distribute gathers until it fits the bodice. Pin securely in place then stitch together.

Step 4

With right sides facing, pin together shoulder seams. Stitch. Neaten.

Step 5

Follow the remaining steps as per you instruction booklet to finish your facing pieces (steps 1, 10 &11), your ties (step 6), your sides seams, sleeves and hems (steps 13, 14, 15 & 16).

Pattern Hack - The Axis top →

Pattern adjustments:

Step 1. Change cutting instructions on the front bodice to either

a) cut 1 pair, if you would like to self line your top, or

b) cut 1 main fabric and cut 1 lining fabric, if you wish to choose a seperate lining fabric.

Step 2. Change the cutting instructions on the front bodice facing to cut 1 fusing only. (this will be fused onto the bodice lining from step 1)

Sewing Adjustments:

Follow the following steps to construct your Axis top..

Step1

Fuse front facing fusing to front lining piece.

Step 2

Pin bust darts in place on front bodice piece. Stitch. Press darts toward side seams. Repeat for the front lining.

Step 3

Place back pieces together with right sides facing. Stitch together all the way around, leaving the side seams open. At the top notch on one side seam, stitch in 1.2cm/½”, pivot your needle and stitch down to the second notch, pivot your needle again and stitch out to the side seam. Clip into corners. Trim seam allowance in half all the way around back pieces, clip corners and around curves. Turn through to the right side. Press well

Step 4

Place finished back pieces on to front bodice with right sides facing. Pin shoulder seams of back pieces to top edge of front bodice 1.2cm/½”from the sides. Stitch in place with a 5mm/ ¼” seam allowance

Step 5

Place your front facing over the top sandwiching the backs between.Stitch together around armholes and top edge. Trim seam allowance in half, clip corners and around curves, then under stitch seam allowance toward facing where you can. Turn through to the right side and press.

Step 6

Lift the front lining piece up out of the way. Pin front and back bodice side seams together with right sides facing. Stitch together making sure you don’t stitch your side opening shut.

Step 7

Fold edges of front bodice lining over the top and pin securely in place. Stitch together, leaving a 10cm opening on one side.

Step 8

Tuck the ties up in, sandwiching between front and lining front pieces and pin across waist hem with right side facing. Stitch across hem from side seam to side seam.

Step 9

Carefully pull top through the opening in side seam until its the right way out.

Step 10

With top lining side out, hand sew side seam gap closed.

You did it!

Pattern Hack - The Lengthened Rise Turtleneck →

Pattern Adjustment:

Follow these steps to adjust your pattern to a create a turtleneck dress version of our classic Rise and Fall pattern. It is dependant on how much extra length you want to add to your dress as to how much extra fabric you will need to buy.

If you are using 140cm fabric: you will just need to add the measurement that you are lengthening your pattern by to the fabric allowance in the fabric needs chart.

If you are using 114cm fabric: you will need to double the measurement that you are lengthening your pattern by, and add that doubled figure to the fabric allowance in the fabric needs chart.

For this green version we have sampled, we made a Rise version, Papercut size 3 with 65cm added length. So instead of the recommended 1.3m we used 1.9m.

Note: If you choose to also use this beautiful Wool jersey Knit from the fabric box, you will find it has a lower stretch percentage than what we had drafted this pattern for. We did not need to make any adjustments to the body and sleeves of the dress, however we did increase the width of the neck piece by 2inches, just to help with getting the neckband over the head! We love the body and texture this fabric gives to this style.

Step 1

Draw a straight line across the front body pattern piece, parallel with the hemline, 6cm up from bottom hem. Cut along line.

Step 2

On a new piece of paper, draw two parallel lines, the distance between them the amount you want to lengthen your top. Place the top section of pattern piece along the top line and tape in place.

Step 3

Place the bottom section of pattern piece along the bottom line and tape in place.

Step 4

Join the top section to the bottom section with a straight line.

Step 4

Cut out your new lengthened pattern piece.

Repeat these steps to the back pattern piece.

Sewing adjustments:

There are no sewing adjustments needed to make up your Lengthened Rise Turtleneck Dress, just follow the steps in the Rise and Fall instruction booklet.

To see the Rise and Fall photographic tutorial click here.

Pattern Hack - The Knotted Ellipse Bag →

Step 1

On your Outer Shell pattern piece, find halfway along the short straight edge. From this mid point curve a line down to your outer edge, and another curved line to your inner edge of pattern piece.

Step 2

Cut along your curved lines, creating a point.

Repeat to your strap facing pattern piece.

Add a couple of inches to the length of your inside, and outside edge binding pieces.

Sewing Adjustments

We have chosen to quilt the outer shell of this bag to give it an extra fun look! You can choose to do the same, use an alternative texture like teddy fabric or pre quilted materials, or simply use your beautiful fabric as it is.

• Follow steps 1-5 as instructed in your Ellipse Bag instruction booklet.

• Ignore step 6, as we will not be joining the two sides together.

• Continue to follow step 7, however your pieces will just look a little different as they have not been attached. They will need one lining piece placed over each outer (quilted) piece.

• Continue with the rest of the steps in your instruction booklet, although Steps 8 and 12 can be skipped as we will not be joining the binding pieces together either.

• Once all the binding is on, simply tie the two sides together at the top of the strap! Enjoy your cute new bag!

You can find the photographic tutorial on the Ellipse Bag here.